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Assembly Tips

 

  • A flat, level surface is important for square joints.
  • For extra large projects, you may wish to build in the room, or build in place.
  • One edge of each panel is finished.  This is the front edge and should be orientated forward.  If covering with a face frame, you can rotate so the finished edge is facing backward for a better joint.
  • We recommend a Kreg Jig and 1-1/4" Kreg Jig screws for attaching the shelves to the dividers and sides.  For 12" depth, a minimum of two pocket holes per end.  For 16" depth, a minimum of three pocket holes per end. For 24" depth, a minimum of four pocket holes per end.
  • You'll also need a drill, measuring tape and a speed square for marking shelf locations.
  • Not all shelves have to be attached - some can be adjustable with shelf pins.  But you'll need some support about every three feet vertically to keep the sides from ballooning out.  This can be either a fixed shelf or bay supports.  Example: A closet tower has a fixed bottom shelf, a fixed top shelf, a fixed middle shelf, and the remaining shelves are adjustable.
  • When shelves are attached at the exact same location on either side of a center divider, slightly stagger the pocket holes so the screws don't intersect each other.
  • Mark the underside of the shelf location on the sides/dividers so you can see your pencil mark as you place the shelf and attach it.
  • It may be beneficial to attach some of the bay supports pieces to help support open ends while attaching the Shelf Help pieces.
  • Use gravity to your advantage to hold shelves in place or drive screws.
  • It really helps to have a second person, especially on those bigger projects.