Frameless Drawer Bench

by Ana White

Build your own custom length window seat or drawer bench for way less, without compromising quality. It's easy to design your own, perfect for your space and finish with any paint or stain!

Window Seat or Drawer Bench Features

Customize-able to any length
Paint or stain any color of choice
Fits standard 24" cushions on top
Beautiful mitered baseboard for a custom look
Easy to build frameless design for professional looking results

Tools Needed: Measuring Tape, Drill, Kreg Jig, Circular Saw, Mitersaw, Brad Nailer, Power Sander

Materials Needed: ShelfHelp plywood carcass, 1x2 and 1x3 supports, 1x8 drawer box, 1x12 drawer face, 1/4" plywood drawer bottoms, 4-1/4" baseboard moulding, 1-1/4" Kreg Screws, 1" brad nails, wood glue, 20" full extension ball bearing drawer slides

Step 1: Design Your Drawer Bench

Use our free online configurator to create your drawer bench plywood carcass.

Width: Any desired width - benches over 10 feet may become cumbersome to build and move, I recommend breaking up into multiple benches
Height: 17"
Depth: 24"
Bays: Bays should be less than 30" wide to prevent sagging when sitting on the bench top

For built-in nook or size critical installs, always size down about 1/2" to allow for discrepancies in the walls and floor. You can always add trim to cover gaps, but a too large bench will be hard to fix.

Step 2: Assembling the Carcass

Once your ShelfHelp package arrives, it's time to build the project.

I recommend four 3/4" pocket holes on each end of all shelf boards into the dividers. Keep finished edges flush on front side, all edges flush to the top (shown face down in diagram). Attach with 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.

Step 3: Bay Supports

Bay supports help strengthen the project and reduce the amount of plywood needed, thereby reducing cost and weight.

The bay supports highlighted in blue are cut to match the width of your shelves. Attach with two pocket holes per end. The bay support highlighted in green is for further supporting the bench top. Attach with 1-1/4" screws into the dividers with glue, you can use pocket hole screws (but don't need to predrill out a pocket hole).

Step 4: Drawers

These drawers are easy to install and require no math.

Use 20" full extension drawer slides.

Inside all the bays, draw a level line 6-1/2" down from the top.
Install the cabinet members of the drawer slides on the line, with screws started on the line, set in from front edge of cabinet 1" (to allow for the drawer face).
Cut drawer sides from 1x8s 20" long, two per drawer. Draw lines 5-1/4" from edge on all drawer sides, parallel to bottom of drawer. Install cabinet member of the drawer slide with the line in the center of the screw holes. The two drawer sides need to be installed in mirror.
Insert drawer sides into the drawer slides installed in the bays. Measure in between and cut the front and back of drawers with 1x8s. Build drawer box with 3/4" pocket holes and 1-1/4" pocket hole screws.
Make sure the drawer slides perfect. Remove and measure and cut 1/4" plywood to fit on bottom. Attach with 1" nails or staples or screws and glue.
Cut 1x12 drawer faces 1/4" smaller than opening. Attach to front of drawer with an 1/8" gap around all four sides with nails. Remove drawer and further secure with 1-1/4" screws (yes, you can use pocket holes).

Step 5: Baseboard

This plan is designed to work with standard 4-1/4" base moulding.

Measure and cut your basemoulding with ends mitered at 45 degrees. Attach with 1" brad nails.

If installing in a nook, add the baseboard after the bench is in it's final postion.

Step 6: Optional Top

If you are not using a cushion on top of your bench, you can add a wood top.

Use 3/4" thick wood, commonly referred to as 1x material. Install the bench in it's final location. Then cut the bench top boards to fit, for a custom fit, with no gaps at the back or sides.

Finishing

Sand the project with medium grit sandpaper, followed by fine grit. Stain or paint as recommended by product manufacturer.